Stair treads are the part of the stairs where you place your foot as you climb up or descend them. Replacing stair treads may be necessary due to age or wear, or for esthetic reasons. Some people remove the carpet that covers their stairs and find that the treads and risers are of rough construction or severely damaged by carpet tack strips and staples. In all these cases, you may want or need to replace your stair treads. There are several different methods of stair construction and replacing the stair treads depends to a certain degree on how your stairs were built. Some stair treads are mortised into the stair skirting or stringers. Others are simply butted up to the stair stringer, which is attached to the drywall. We will talk about the type of stair tread that butts up to the stringer attached to drywall.

Update your stairs with new treads, risers, and skirting

Preparation

1. Remove all the old carpet, padding, staples, and tack strips.
2. Check the stair steps, both risers and treads, for plumb and level, and squeaking. Shim them where necessary to plumb and level them and eliminate noise and add long spiral screws or nails.
3. You will need to cut away the overhang from each rough construction stair step so it is flush with the riser backing below it. Use a jigsaw or sabresaw to cut all the way to the wall on each end.

Purchase materials

1. You can buy hardwood strips or planks to resurface your treads and risers.
2. You will also need bullnose material that matches your treads and risers.

Install the stringers

1. Cut out templates from cardboard for the stair stringers. You can adjust the template until you get a perfect fit, then cut the stringers out of ¼” plywood.
2. Install the stringers with a good quality construction adhesive.

Install the risers

1. Measure the risers and cut them out of 1/4” plywood one at a time. Check the stair stringer for square at each side of the tread. You may have to scribe the end of each riser to fit the stringer perfectly.
2. Cut each end of the riser on a slight bevel from front to back so you can achieve a tight fit flush with the stringer.
3. Install the risers beginning at the top of the staircase. Hold the riser flush with the top of the stair step above it and nail it in place. You can also use construction adhesive behind the riser, as well.
4. Fill the nail holes in the riser, sand them smooth, and refinish them.

Install the treads

1. Measure the stair treads and cut them one at a time. Dry fit them first to make sure they fit precisely against both the stringers and the riser.
2. Just as in fitting the riser, you may have to scribe the tread and cut it to fit the stringers at both ends.
3. Drill holes for the nails and install them.
4. Fill the nail holes with wood putty or filler, sand them smooth, and refinish them.

Install the bullnose material

1. Measure for each individual bullnose and cut it out.
2. Do not bevel the ends of the bullnose material like you did for the risers.
3. Install the bullnose material on the front face of the stair tread with construction adhesive and nails.
4. As always, fill the nail holes, sand them smooth, and refinish them.

Tips

Some people choose to finish the stair treads, risers, stringers, and bullnose material before installing it. This speeds up the installation where the stairs are in use every day. Just touch up the materials after installation where they may have been scratched or marred during the process.
It is critical that you ensure all the rough construction is straight, plumb, level, and tight before proceeding to install the risers, treads, and stringers. It is too late to repair squeaks or gaps once the treads and risers are installed.
If you think you may be replacing the treads, risers, and stringers again in the foreseeable future, do not use construction adhesive during the installation. Stick with nails and screws.
Keep broom, dustpan, and shop vacuum handy during installation to prevent damage from loose fasteners, sawdust, or debris.
Use the proper solvent to clean up after using any adhesive.
All the cuts made installing stair treads, risers, and stringers are precise so use the very best sharp thin kerf carbide blades you can buy for your saws.

Stainless steel makes a beautiful, fashionable, durable, commercial quality surface that is easy to clean. It excels as a backsplash material for countertops and wall cabinets. Available at many home centers and hardware stores, it is relatively easy to obtain, although in some locations it may need to be special ordered. Even though stainless steel is very hard, you can drill and cut it, with patience. It is better to install stainless steel backsplash material before the countertops and wall cabinets are installed but it is possible to install it after the fact, as well.

Preparation

1. Make certain your walls are square where they meet each other and the countertop.
2. Make sure the wall surfaces are clean, intact, and thoroughly dry.
3. Mark the location of every wall stud on the countertop frame or countertop and above the top of the new backsplash on the wall below the wall cabinets or even on the bottom panel of the wall cabinets.

Purchase

1. Measure for the new backsplash material and either purchase a large enough piece at your home center or hardware store or special order it cut to fit.
2. You can also cut a template out of cardboard to fit the new backsplash and take that with you to purchase the piece you need or order it.

Installation

1. If the piece you purchased needs to be cut to fit, do that now. Use a pair of heavy-duty sheet metal shears designed for stainless steel or cut it with a very fine tooth saw blade designed for stainless steel and a saw like a jigsaw, supporting the piece completely along its length.
2. Lay the new piece of stainless steel in position and mark out the location of each fastener, using a prick punch or scribe.
3. Pay close attention to the corners where two pieces of backsplash material meet. If your walls are square the stainless steel should meet in a perfect joint but that is rare.
4. Trim the edges of the stainless steel to meet at the corners or install a piece of corner trim and butt the stainless steel backsplash pieces up to it.
5. Drill the fastener holes slightly larger than the size of your fasteners.
6. You may want to apply an adhesive caulk like liquid nails to the back of the stainless steel before placing it in position.
7. Install the fasteners with trim washers.

Tips

The key to cutting and drilling stainless steel successfully is to cut or drill with a very sharp blade or drill bit and turn it very slowly, the slower the better. Use a good lubricant for stainless steel, as well.

Protect the stainless steel surface where you are going to cut or drill in case your tool slips. Use painters masking tape and remove it as soon as you are through cutting or drilling. However, you can leave it in place while you drive in your fasteners just in case the screwdriver slips, too.

The dryer vent is an important piece of your clothes dryer’s proper operation. It is the plastic or light metal hood-like terminus on the outside of your home.

It directs warm, moist air and lint to the outside. The dryer vent hood consists of a hood, a mount flange, a sleeve connection for the dryer vent pipe, a plastic trim ring, and a flapper that seals the dryer vent system from the entrance of pests, birds, leaves, and other intruders when the dryer is not running. Because the dryer vent is on the outside of your home, it is exposed to the weather, which will cause deterioration over time. Bumping the plastic or light metal vent hood will also damage it. Replacement is generally not difficult.

Removal

1. Gain access to the old dryer vent by unplugging the dryer and moving it out away from the wall.
2. If your dryer is gas-operated, turn off the gas cock behind the appliance and disconnect the flexible gas connector.
3. Loosen the clamp on the dryer pipe near where it passes out through the wall.
4. Outside, use a razor knife to cut away the caulking, if there is any, around the mount flange of the dryer vent.
5. Remove the screws in the mount flange that hold the vent to the outside wall.
6. Twist and gently pull the dryer vent sleeve out of the dryer pipe.
7. Inspect the dryer pipe for lint build-up and damage.
8. Gently clean any lint build-up out of the vent pipe. A shop vacuum works well for this.
9. Replace the dryer vent pipe, if necessary. Be sure to use metal vent pipe for a gas dryer.

Replacing a dryer vent is generally easy

Installation

1. Slide the new dryer vent hood through the hole in the outside wall.
2. Orient the new dryer vent hood so it points down toward the ground.
3. Fasten the mount flange to the wall with screws. Use plated or galvanized screws so they will not rust.
4. Run a bead of a good quality acrylic latex caulk with silicone around the joint where the mount flange meets the siding.
5. Inside, slip the dryer vent trim ring around the vent sleeve and fasten the trim ring to the wall.
6. Carefully push the dryer vent pipe over the vent hood sleeve connection.
7. Reinstall the vent pipe clamp and carefully snug it up.
8. If you disconnected a gas line to move your dryer, reconnect it now. Turn on the gas cock and test the connections with a soapy water solution. If bubbles are present, the joint is leaking. Retighten it.
9. Move the dryer back into position and plug it in.

Tips

1. When you slide your dryer out, protect the floor so the feet of the appliance do not damage it.
2. Your new dryer vent hood may be a slightly larger outside diameter than the old one. If so, you may need to enlarge the hole in the outside wall. Simply cut a little material away with a sabresaw or sawzall and long wood-cutting blade.
3. Be careful to check every accessible gas connection behind the dryer when you reinstall it, not just the one you took apart. Spray or brush a heavy solution of dish detergent and water on each connection. Then watch and wait to see if any bubbles appear. When you are done, wipe up all the test solution so it does not rust the connections.

Refacing kitchen cupboards will create a new look and allow you to update your kitchen at a reasonable cost compared to installing all new cabinetry. Refacing cupboards and cabinets is not difficult and can be a fun project. There are many different ways to refinish your kitchen cabinets. You can repaint them, or simply install new doors and drawer fronts. You can also exchange the old hardware for new updated styles. There are many different styles of self-sticking veneers available in wood grain patterns as well as colors, and you can also install RTF (rigid thermofoil) foil on the face frames of your cabinet boxes. RTF foil typically does not come with self-adhesive backing. In this article, we will address refacing kitchen cabinets with self-sticking veneers.

Preparation

1. Cover all floor surfaces with drop clothes to protect the finish.
2. Remove all doors and drawers, including hinges and drawer pulls.
3. Clean your cabinets with a solution of TSP or dish detergent and warm water.
4. Do not soak the wood. Simply wipe it down and let it dry.
5. Sand the surface of the face frame with 100 or 150 grit sandpaper. All you want to do here is rough up the surface lightly to promote good adhesion.
6. Remove the dust with a vacuum and a tack cloth.

Update your old kitchen cupboards with a fresh new application of veneer.

Installation

1. Install plywood on the end panels of the cabinets in a pattern and color that matches, complements, or contrasts with, the veneer. Use a good quality adhesive and 2d finishing nails. Countersink the nails and fill the holes with wood putty or filler. Sand before finishing.
2. Sand the edges of the plywood end panels that are adjacent to the face frame flush and smooth.
3. Cut the veneer ½” wider than the stiles (the vertical face frame members) and 2” longer. Cut the veneer so that the grain runs lengthwise.
4. Butt the top of the veneer strip against the top of the stile. Remove a little of the backing and press the veneer strip in place allowing the extra width and length to overlap the sides equally.
5. Next, cut strips of veneer for the rails (the horizontal face frame members). Overlap the ends of the rail strips over the stiles veneer pieces.
6. Trim the veneer where the rail piece and stile piece overlap at the same time.
7. Gently pick up the overlapped end of the rail veneer piece and remove the stile veneer waste with the point of a razor knife.
8. Lay the rail piece down and press it in place.
9. Work all the air bubbles out by pressing the veneer in place with a smooth wooden block.
10. Trim the veneer with a razor knife or a laminate trimmer and the proper bits.
11. Do each opening one at a time.
12. Install door hinges and doors, centering the doors in the door openings.
13. Install the door hardware.
14. Install the drawer fronts. If the drawer is a four-sided box, remove the old drawer front and install the new one in its place. If the drawer is a three-sided box, cut the overhanging edges of the old drawer front flush with the sides, top, and bottom of the drawer. Reverse the drawer, install the new drawer front on the back end of the drawer box, reverse the drawer slides, and reinstall the drawer.
15. Install the drawer pulls and door knobs.

Tips

Cover the edges of the face frame first for a complete and professional look. Use the same technique as for the face frame.

You can trim the veneer with a pair of tin snips and a fine file if you do not have the laminate trimmer and bits.

Veneer is designed to stick to a finished surface. It will not stick to raw wood. So, for raw wood applications, apply a light coat of spray lacquer or varnish first for extra adhesion. Let it dry thoroughly before applying the veneer.

Doorknobs come in many shapes, styles, sizes, and configurations. You can get doorknobs in any finish you desire from antique brass to brightly finished brass, chrome, or even exotic finish combinations like wrought iron and crystal. Installing a doorknob or replacing a worn out one is not difficult but it can look confusing with all the different pieces. Tools required to remove and replace doorknobs are rudimentary, usually those found in most home owners’ toolkits.

Purchase the doorknob

1. Purchase the doorknob of your choice, choosing the finish that is right for you.
2. Pay special attention to the specifications on the doorknob package.
3. Verify that the doorknob is designed to fit the thickness of door you have.
4. Ensure that the doorknob lock is the style you want whether push button, turn button, or no lock at all, as in the case of an interior door.

Remove the old doorknob

1. On most interior doorknobs, you have to remove the escutcheon (the finished ring behind the knob) in order to expose the two mount screws. Just twist and pull it toward you. You may have to work it free with the tip of a knife blade or very fine screwdriver.
2. Remove the knob by pushing the tip of the very fine screwdriver into the small slot on the stem of the knob and pulling the doorknob toward you.
3. Now the mount screws are exposed. Simply unscrew them and remove the two halves of the doorknob assembly from the door.
4. Push the latch assembly out of the door.

Changing an interior doorknob

1. Push the new latch assembly into place through the hole in the edge of the door.
2. Insert one half of the doorknob assembly, usually the half with the threaded mount holes, into the latch in the doorknob hole. Make sure the threaded mount holes go through the corresponding holes in the latch.
3. Install the second half of the doorknob
4. Start the two mount screws in the mount holes. Install the mount plate over the heads of the two mount screws. Snug the screws up.
5. Slide the finish ring over the doorknob stem, push it into position, and turn it slightly to lock it in place
6. Push the doorknob into position until it snaps in place.
7. Test your new doorknob installation. You may have to adjust the strike plate on the doorjamb for proper closing.

Tips

There are so many varieties of doorknobs on the market that it is impossible to cover all makes and models in a short article. Always refer to the manufacturer’s instructions to properly install your new doorknob. Exterior doorknobs install in a similar manner. Be certain that the door closes snugly after the installation. With exterior doors, make sure the door closes tightly against the weatherstripping. If necessary, remove the striker plate and adjust it in or out, enlarging the striker hole in the jamb accordingly.