Single pane windows are, for the most part, a thing of the past. But there are still older homes that have single pane windows. It is inevitable that at some point a single pane window will be broken. Glazing is a term that describes replacement of a windowpane, or more properly, setting glass in a frame. Single windowpanes were usually held in place in a wooden frame with glazing points (small triangular pieces of metal) and made air and weather tight with glazing putty. Panes were held in place in metal frames with small spring steel glazing clips in place of glazing points.
Removal of the broken pane
- The glazing putty may be cracked or hard and crumbling. Remove it carefully with a razor knife and putty knife.
- If the glazing putty is too hard to remove with a putty knife, you can heat it carefully with a propane torch and scrape away the softened putty.
- Once you have removed the softened putty, slide the edge of your putty knife around the wooden window frame where the glass meets the frame. You can feel the glazing points with the edge of the putty knife, even if you can’t see them.
- Starting at the top of the glass pane, work the glazing points out with the putty knife.
- Finally, remove the broken glass pieces from the window frame itself.
Installation of the new glass pane
- It is imperative that you thoroughly clean the rabbited edge of the window frame where the new glass pane will be seated. If even the smallest piece of debris, like putty or an undiscovered glazing point is left on the edge, when you install the new glass pane it may break. Almost certainly, it will leak when it rains.
- Clean the window frame with a small wire brush or scraper.
- Make sure that the new pane is cut slightly smaller than the actual size of the windowpane opening.
- Set the new pane in place in the window opening.
- Install the glazing points using a glazing point tool. Push the points into the wood far enough to hold the pane in place securely but not too far.
- Purchase a can of glazing putty from the hardware store or home center. Mix the putty thoroughly in case any of the oils have settled out.
- Using a small putty knife, apply the glazing putty to the window frame in front of the glass. The putty should be applied in a thickness equal to the depth of the rabbit cut in the wood or metal frame.
- Trim the glazing putty from the inside edge of the frame rabbit to taper down to the outer edge of the window frame with your putty knife.
- Where edges of the window frame meet from vertical to horizontal, or vice versa, use your putty knife to form a nice forty-five degree joint.
When applying the glazing putty, use enough force on the putty knife to push the glazing putty tightly against the glass and into the joint formed by the glass and the wood or metal frame to make a tight seal. Smooth the glazing putty with your putty knife. You can dip it in a light oil like 3-in-one to make an even smoother, more professional looking joint.
Space the glazing points around the glass pane. Use enough points to hold the pane securely in its frame.
Wait to clean the window pane of oily fingerprints until after the glazing putty has set up completely.
One source of air infiltration in homes is under outside doors and between window sashes. If you have old-fashioned wooden windows, the seam between the upper and lower panes and the bottom of the window and the sill can let heat out and cold air in.
You should have proper thresholds and door sweeps installed on all outside doors but sometimes these still let a little draft in. You can stop those cold drafts and help lower your heating bill with a draft stop.
You simply place these long stuffed fabric containers over or against the seam or crack and they block the cold air from entering the home. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes; anything from fabric animals all connected to simple straight tubes of fabric, sewn and stuffed with a variety of fillings to give them weight and hold them in place.
You can make them easily and save money.
Measure the width of the window seam or crack under the door where you intend to use the draft stop. Cut a fabric of your choice in a minimum 8” wide rectangle an inch or two longer than the width measurement. Use a strong fabric such as upholstery fabric that matches, contrasts with, or complements your decor, not a soft or fuzzy material, or a lightweight one. Fold the fabric in half lengthwise so the backside of the fabric is facing out. Now simply sew the long side and one of the short sides shut with a strong, matching thread.
Turn the bag you have sewn inside out. You can work it out with a broom or mop handle by inserting the handle in the bag and pushing it as you work the fabric down the handle.
Choose the filling you want to use. In choosing the filling think about filling materials that will bear up under moisture because the draft stop may collect condensate from the window sash. You can use dried beans, rice, clean dry sand, clean dry pea gravel, or fabric fillings you can buy at a local fabric store or sewing center. Just make sure that the fabric fillings are heavy enough to hold the draft stop firmly in place.
Bear in mind any allergies you, or members of your household, might have in choosing the type of filling material.
Simply place the filling material inside the tube making sure to leave enough material at the end of the tube to sew it shut. The tube should be a nice round shape, not flattened out or oblong.
Sew the end of the tube shut and place it at the bottom of the door or over the seam in the window sash.
You have just made a cheap, efficient, practical, and good-looking draft stop and saved money on your utility bill in the process.